Dan Tana, the enigmatic restaurateur whose eponymous establishment became a beloved fixture in Hollywood, passed away at the age of 90 on Saturday in Belgrade, Serbia. His death, confirmed by his daughter Gabrielle Tana as caused by cancer, took place in a hospital in his native city. The announcement from the staff of Dan Tana’s Restaurant on Facebook described him as a legend who “created a very magical place,” with the message that the “beloved little yellow house will forever feel his presence.” Tributes poured in from fans and public figures worldwide, honoring a life that spanned continents, careers, and industries.
Born Dobrivoje Tanasijević on May 26, 1935, in Cibutkovica, a small town near Belgrade, Yugoslavia, Tana’s journey from professional athlete to Hollywood restaurateur was unconventional. His life reflected a combination of relentless drive, astute understanding of people, and a flair for creating spaces that combined charm with exclusivity. From soccer fields in Europe to the bustling dining scene of West Hollywood, Tana cultivated a unique vision that mirrored his own sophisticated yet approachable persona.
From Soccer Prodigy to American Dream
Tana began his professional soccer career as a teenager, playing on the farm team for Red Star Belgrade. During a team trip to Belgium, a confrontation with a chaperone led him and a few friends to defect. He later played in the Southern German League and in Montreal, Canada, demonstrating the determination that would define his future ventures.
His arrival in the United States was propelled by a major poker win in 1956, which provided him the means to move to Hollywood. This moment set the stage for a remarkable reinvention, as Tana transitioned from athlete to actor and eventually to the restaurateur whose name would become synonymous with West Hollywood.
Hollywood Dreams and Early Hospitality
In Hollywood, Tana pursued acting, studying under Jeff Corey alongside future stars like Natalie Wood, Angie Dickinson, and Kim Novak. Adopting the name Dan Tana to appeal to American audiences, he debuted in the 1957 war film The Enemy Below. Roles often cast him as Germans, Russians, or criminals, which he later recounted with humor, noting, “I always got killed, and I never got to kiss the girl.”
To support himself, Tana entered the restaurant industry, starting as a dishwasher at Patsy D’Amore’s Villa Capri and later becoming a maitre d’ at La Scala in Beverly Hills. These formative experiences provided a foundation for his eventual establishment of a restaurant that blended old-world elegance with Hollywood allure.
Establishing Dan Tana’s: A Hollywood Institution
In 1964, Tana purchased Dominick’s hamburger stand, a 1929 bungalow on Santa Monica Boulevard, and transformed it into Dan Tana’s, a New York Italian-style restaurant. His goal was to fill a gap in Los Angeles dining by creating a late-night haven for stars and industry figures, keeping the kitchen open until 12:30 a.m. He recalled to The Hollywood Reporter, “There was not a decent restaurant serving until 1 a.m. You had to go to a coffee shop.”
The early years were challenging. In 1966, faced with a nearly empty dining room, Tana comped appetizers for six customers, one of whom was Los Angeles Times columnist Art Ryon. Ryon’s glowing review helped establish the restaurant’s reputation, leading to a loyal following and cementing its status as a Hollywood hotspot. The proximity to the Troubadour in the 1970s further boosted its popularity among music and film personalities.
Timeless Ambiance and Signature Style
Dan Tana’s interiors evoke mid-20th-century Italy, preserved even after a 1980 fire when customers requested exact replication of the old saloon. Characterized by “bordello red” booths, checkered tablecloths, and candlelit corners, the restaurant offers an intimate, nostalgic setting. Marinara sauce and red Christmas lights add to the charm, while the staff, many from the former Yugoslavia and dressed in black bow ties, contribute to a discreet, professional atmosphere. L.A. historian Alison Martino noted, “When… you walk in, the world stops.”
The restaurant became a private haven for Hollywood elites. Its ambiance, combined with a consistent culinary experience, fostered loyalty across generations of patrons. Regulars included legends like Johnny Carson, Jack Nicholson, Richard Burton, and contemporary stars such as Cameron Diaz, who praised the restaurant’s remarkable consistency. Dan Tana’s was often compared to New York’s renowned establishments like Elaine’s and Rao’s, serving as a space where celebrities could unwind in comfort and privacy.
A Menu Rooted in Comfort and Celebrity
The cuisine at Dan Tana’s emphasizes classic Italian-American comfort dishes, such as fettuccine Alfredo and chicken Parmesan. The menu remained largely unchanged over decades, resisting fleeting culinary trends while providing reliable, satisfying fare. Jonathan Gold of The Times observed, “Dan Tana’s is not about denying yourself things,” highlighting the importance of the overall experience over gourmet innovation.
A distinctive tradition was naming dishes after famous patrons, creating a “menu of legends.” Notable examples include Dabney Coleman’s 18 oz. New York steak, veal parmigiana Jerry Weintraub, and veal cutlet a la George Clooney. These personalized offerings strengthened the restaurant’s connection with its clientele and immortalized its most devoted guests within the menu itself.
Continuity and Legacy
Dan Tana sold the restaurant in 2009 to Sonja Perencevic, a wealthy friend from the Balkans, before retiring to Belgrade. Perencevic pledged to maintain the restaurant exactly as Tana had established it, honoring the spirit and traditions of the original establishment. Longtime staff, unchanged décor, and the unaltered menu ensured that the magic Tana created continued to flourish, preserving its reputation as a Hollywood landmark.
Beyond his restaurant, Tana remained involved in soccer, managing teams in Los Angeles and Belgrade, and maintaining homes in his native city. Multilingual and cultured, he blended athleticism with sophistication, captivating both patrons and celebrities. His name also inspired the main character in the ABC series Vega$ (1978–1981), further extending his influence into popular culture.
Honoring a Legend
Dan Tana’s passing marks the end of an extraordinary life but highlights the enduring nature of his legacy. Tributes from friends, fans, and public figures described him as a true American gem, embodying both charm and resilience. James Woods, a close friend, remembered him as “The legendary true force of nature.” The staff’s final message, “This man is a legend, and as you know a legend never dies,” captures the sentiment shared by many.
Even after his passing, the spirit of Dan Tana lives on through the restaurant he created, a timeless haven welcoming generations of patrons. L.A. historian Alison Martino recalled the toast at the restaurant on the night of his death, emphasizing celebration over sorrow: “Mr. Tana would want us to be happy.” In this way, the magic of Dan Tana’s, and the remarkable life of its founder, continues to endure.
