The world of royal adornments is a realm of unparalleled beauty, history, and profound symbolism, where each jewel tells a story deeply intertwined with the lives of its wearers and the epochs they represent. Among all imaginable kinds of jewelry, brooches have carved out a uniquely versatile niche, serving not merely as practical fasteners for clothing, but also as potent badges of allegiance, cherished personal keepsakes, and breathtaking ornaments that capture the essence of an era. From sparkling heirlooms meticulously passed down through generations to glamorous, custom-designed pieces that announce a new chapter, these magnificent adornments have consistently captivated and astounded us with their sheer opulence and intricate narratives. It is within this magnificent context that we embark on a journey through a curated selection of some of the most iconic royal brooches, many of which belonged to Her Late Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, whose collection is legendary.
Queen Elizabeth II, a figure synonymous with unwavering elegance and a deep appreciation for tradition, rarely stepped out in public without a perfectly chosen brooch gracing her ensemble. This signature style was more than just a fashion statement; it was a testament to her belief in jewelry’s traditional role within the Royal family—as a proud display of the nation’s heritage and artistry. Each brooch, though perhaps not carrying explicit political weight due to the Queen’s steadfast neutrality, invariably came with its own captivating provenance, a tale of how it came into her possession, and often, a sentiment that made its appearance particularly poignant. These pieces, housed securely in her treasure trove beneath Buckingham Palace, represent not just material value but also a rich tapestry of personal milestones, diplomatic encounters, and moments of quiet reflection.
As we delve into this remarkable collection, we illuminate the intricate details, the master craftsmanship, and the rich historical and cultural contexts that elevate these brooches beyond mere accessories. We will uncover how these magnificent jewels were received, the significant occasions they marked, and the enduring stories they continue to whisper across the decades. Join us as we explore the initial chapters of this glittering legacy, starting with five exquisite pieces that graced Princess Elizabeth during her formative years, each a testament to her emerging royal persona and the timeless artistry of fine jewelry.
1. **The Jardinière Brooch**Our journey begins with a charming piece that speaks to the youthful elegance of a princess coming into her own: the Jardinière Brooch. This delightful adornment, a “small Art Deco platinum and diamond basket brooch overflowing with cabochon ruby berries, carved pale Indian emerald leaves and sapphire flowers,” was a cherished gift to Princess Elizabeth from her parents in 1941, marking her fifteenth birthday. It reflects a period when her personal jewelry box was beginning to fill with an array of colorful, floral-inspired baubles, each a symbol of affection and growth within the royal household.
What distinguishes the Jardinière Brooch, as noted by Leslie Field, is its unique design—similar to the more widely known Flower Basket Brooch but notably lacking a top basket handle, making it a distinctive piece in its own right. This subtle difference highlights the curated nature of royal jewelry, where even minor variations can denote a unique history or a specific commission. The Art Deco influence, with its geometric precision and vibrant gem combinations, also places this brooch firmly within the stylistic trends of the early 20th century.
The brooch made an early public appearance in April 1942, when the young princess was photographed wearing it while cycling during a family photo session at Windsor with photographer Lisa Sheridan. This image offers a rare glimpse into the more relaxed, personal side of royal life during wartime, showcasing the brooch not just as a formal adornment but as a beloved accessory for a teenage girl. Its presence in such an intimate family moment underscores its sentimental value, marking it as more than just an item of jewelry, but a personal keepsake from her formative years.
The Jardinière Brooch, therefore, stands as a beautiful testament to Princess Elizabeth’s early years, an emblem of the thoughtful gifts exchanged within her family, and a symbol of the blossoming royal who would one day become queen. Its blend of precious stones and intricate design embodies the delicate balance of regal tradition and personal sentiment that characterizes much of the royal jewelry collection, offering a sparkling glimpse into the world of a young princess preparing for her extraordinary destiny.
2. **The Queen Mother’s Art Deco Leaf Brooch**Following in our exploration of early royal treasures is another exquisite piece that carries a rich family history: The Queen Mother’s Art Deco Leaf Brooch. This multi-gem marvel was meticulously crafted by Cartier in 1928, a period when the Art Deco movement was at its zenith, influencing design across all artistic disciplines. It was originally a gift from the Duke of York, who would later become King George VI, to his beloved wife, Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, signifying not just a token of affection but also a jewel of the highest artistic standard from one of the world’s most prestigious jewelers.
The brooch’s journey through the royal family continued when the Queen Mother, in an act of wartime practicality and familial affection, passed it on to Princess Elizabeth as a birthday present during the war. This exchange was characteristic of the era, as “Many of the jewels received by the princess in the early ’40s were hand-me-down gifts from relatives, understandably,” reflecting the more frugal, yet still deeply sentimental, approach to gift-giving during a time of global conflict. Such pieces carry an added layer of historical resonance, embodying continuity and resilience.
The multi-gem design of the leaf brooch showcases Cartier’s exceptional craftsmanship, with each stone carefully selected and set to create a dynamic and elegant form that captures the natural beauty of a leaf. The precise arrangement of various gems would have created a shimmering effect, making it a versatile piece suitable for a range of occasions. Its timeless appeal ensured it remained a favored item, cherished by both the Queen Mother and her daughter.
Princess Elizabeth was photographed wearing this historic jewel in April 1951, upon her arrival back in London after an official visit to Italy. This public appearance demonstrates the brooch’s continued relevance and elegance in her evolving royal wardrobe. It symbolizes the continuity of royal taste and the sentimental value of heirlooms, connecting generations through shared beauty and a legacy of refined adornment. The brooch is not just a beautiful object; it is a tangible link to a pivotal period in British history and a testament to enduring familial bonds.
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3. **The Aquamarine Clip Brooches**Among the significant gifts bestowed upon Princess Elizabeth during her youth, the Aquamarine Clip Brooches hold a particularly special place, not only for their inherent beauty but also for the deep personal connections they embody. This matched pair of diamond and aquamarine clip brooches, crafted by the esteemed house of Boucheron, was a landmark 18th birthday gift from her parents in April 1944. This coming-of-age present was especially thoughtful, having been originally commissioned a decade earlier by her uncle, the Duke of Kent, signifying a piece already steeped in royal lineage even before it came into her possession.
The design of these brooches is a testament to Boucheron’s artistry, featuring sparkling diamonds expertly paired with the serene, cool blue hues of aquamarines. The clip mechanism itself speaks to a classic style of jewelry, offering versatility in how they could be worn—either together, enhancing an outfit with symmetrical elegance, or individually, providing a subtle touch of regal sparkle. This adaptability made them a practical yet luxurious addition to the princess’s burgeoning collection of jewels.
The sentimental value of these aquamarine brooches deepened over time, particularly in their association with the memory of her father, King George VI. The Queen has notably chosen to wear them on highly significant dates, especially those connected to her father’s passing. A poignant example of this can be seen in February 2022, when she wore them as she celebrated her Platinum Jubilee, an event that also marked the 70th anniversary of her father’s death. Such choices transform the jewels into silent, shimmering tributes.
This recurring practice underscores how deeply personal and symbolic royal jewelry can be. The aquamarine clip brooches are more than just exquisite diamonds and gemstones; they are tangible memories, enduring symbols of family, duty, and remembrance. Their consistent presence at pivotal moments in the Queen’s reign illustrates a profound connection to her past and a subtle, yet powerful, way of honoring the legacy of those who came before her, making them truly iconic pieces within her extensive collection.
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4. **The Vanguard Rose Brooch**The Vanguard Rose Brooch is a fascinating piece that perfectly encapsulates a pivotal moment in Princess Elizabeth’s early public life, blending royal duty with a deeply personal keepsake. This classic diamond brooch, intricately designed to feature “a wild rose among leaves and other blossoms and buds,” was presented to the Princess in December 1944. The occasion was the launching of the HMS Vanguard, an event that marked a significant milestone in her burgeoning public career as a young royal.
At just 18 years old, Princess Elizabeth launched what the Liverpool Daily Post proudly reported as “the greatest battleship ever built in the British Isles.” This “great naval occasion was the first important public duty the Princess has carried out alone,” signifying her growing responsibilities and her emerging presence on the national stage. The brooch, therefore, became an immediate and tangible symbol of this momentous solo engagement, a glittering memento of her dedication to service.
The reporter at the time further chronicled the presentation, noting, “The Princess was given a diamond brooch fashioned as the rose of England for a souvenir.” Her own words about the gift were equally telling: “‘This will always serve to remind me that the first important public duty I ever undertook was a naval occasion,’ she said.” This statement highlights the brooch’s profound personal significance, transforming it from a mere ornament into a powerful reminder of her early commitments and the path she was destined to follow.
Throughout her younger years, the Queen wore this brooch often, integrating it into her public appearances. Its recent reappearance from the royal vaults for a rare public display speaks volumes about its enduring importance and the sentimental value it continued to hold. Photographed wearing it at the Exhibition of Two Centuries of Humorous Art in London in June 1951, the Vanguard Rose Brooch remains a beautiful emblem of royal duty, personal remembrance, and the meticulous care with which royal jewels are preserved and cherished across generations.
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5. **The Sapphire and Ruby Floral Brooch**Our fifth exquisite adornment, the Sapphire and Ruby Floral Brooch, offers another enchanting glimpse into the early gifts received by Princess Elizabeth, underscoring the enduring tradition of celebrating milestones with beautifully crafted jewels. In April 1945, as the world was on the cusp of significant change, Princess Elizabeth’s parents once again marked her birthday with a magnificent present: this floral Cartier brooch, brilliantly set with rubies and both blue and pink sapphires. It was a radiant addition to her collection, showcasing the renowned artistry of Cartier, a jeweler favored by royalty for centuries.
Leslie Field, a notable authority on royal jewelry, informs us that this brooch also boasts a matching pair of earrings, suggesting it might have been part of a larger, coordinated set. The photograph taken in January 1948, where Elizabeth is seen wearing the brooch as she helped to assemble food packages for pensioners, offers a fascinating context for its use. This image beautifully illustrates the duality of royal life: the splendor of her jewels juxtaposed with the practical and compassionate duties she undertook, particularly in the post-war period of reconstruction and community support.
The selection of rubies and sapphires for the floral design is particularly striking, creating a vibrant tapestry of color that reflects the intricate beauty of a blossoming garden. The combination of blue and pink sapphires, alongside the deep red of the rubies, suggests a meticulous attention to detail and a desire for a lively, effervescent piece. Such designs were not only fashionable but also carried symbolic weight, often associated with love, wisdom, and nobility, making them perfectly suited for a royal recipient.
This Cartier brooch, therefore, stands as a testament to Princess Elizabeth’s personal growth and her increasing involvement in public life during a transformative era. Its appearance during an act of charity highlights the humanity behind the crown, while its exquisite craftsmanship solidifies its place as a cherished artifact within the royal collection. It is a piece that beautifully blends artistic elegance with historical context, reflecting both the personal affections of her family and the broader duties of her royal role, making it an invaluable part of her early jewel narrative.
Continuing the Legacy: Unveiling Five More Historic Royal Brooches, Examining Their Enduring Charm, Unique Craftsmanship, and Their Place in Queen Elizabeth II’s Enduring Collection and Public Appearances.
As we traverse further into the resplendent world of royal brooches, we uncover pieces that mark not just personal milestones but also significant public duties and evolving royal styles. These next five adornments, deeply interwoven with the narrative of Queen Elizabeth II’s life and reign, serve as magnificent testaments to continuity, grace, and the unparalleled artistry of fine jewelry. Each brooch carries forward the legacy of its predecessors, shimmering with historical context and sentimental value, truly becoming an indelible part of the sovereign’s public and private identity.
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6. **The Sapphire Chrysanthemum Brooch**One of the truly distinctive and immediately recognizable jewels from the Queen’s early collection is the Sapphire Chrysanthemum Brooch. This elegant diamond and sapphire piece was bestowed upon the then-Princess Elizabeth in 1946, a gift commemorating a significant public engagement: the launching of an oil tanker, fittingly christened the British Princess. It immediately became a notable addition to her burgeoning array of royal jewels, marking an important moment in her burgeoning public life.
The brooch holds a particularly sweet and significant place in royal lore, having been famously worn for a portrait session during Princess Elizabeth’s honeymoon at Broadlands in November 1947. This early public appearance, captured for posterity, cemented its place in the visual history of the royal family and underscored its personal value to the young royal couple. Its delicate design, featuring the distinctive chrysanthemum motif, resonated with the tender moments of a new marriage.
Beyond its romantic associations, the Sapphire Chrysanthemum Brooch continued to feature in the Queen’s life, evolving into a symbol of enduring affection. Its reappearance on notable occasions, such as in 2020 when the Queen wore it to honor Prince Philip during his hospital stay, speaks volumes about its deeply personal sentiment. Such choices transform a beautiful object into a powerful, unspoken message, connecting significant life events through the enduring sparkle of a jewel. A photograph from 1951 captures its timeless elegance, showcasing its continued relevance in her wardrobe.
7. **The Flame Lily Brooch**A truly historic and poignant adornment in the Queen’s collection is the captivating Flame Lily Brooch. This magnificent diamond lily brooch was a gift presented to the then-Princess Elizabeth in 1947, on behalf of the children of Zimbabwe, during her memorable royal tour of southern Africa. Its origin story, tied to the goodwill and affection of a Commonwealth nation’s youth, imbues it with a unique and deeply touching significance.
The brooch etched itself into the annals of royal history on a profoundly solemn yet pivotal occasion. Princess Elizabeth wore the Flame Lily Brooch for her arrival back in London in 1952, immediately following the news of her father’s death and her own accession to the throne. This singular moment, captured in countless images, presented the young Queen to her nation, making the brooch an enduring symbol of transition, duty, and the unexpected dawn of a new reign.
In more recent years, this cherished adornment has continued to be a royal favorite, gracing the Queen’s ensembles at various spring occasions. Its presence at events like the Chelsea Flower Show and Royal Ascot underscores its versatility and her fondness for the piece. A photograph from June 1948 shows her wearing it at the Metropolitan Police Horse Show, highlighting its enduring charm even in her earlier years as princess, well before its historic moment.
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8. **The Greville Ivy Leaf Clip Brooches**Among the exquisite collection of jewels that formed Queen Elizabeth’s early treasury, the Greville Ivy Leaf Clip Brooches stand out for their delicate beauty and intriguing provenance. This matched pair of diamond ivy leaf clips was presented to Princess Elizabeth as a gift during the same royal tour of several African nations where she celebrated her 21st birthday. These delicate adornments marked a significant personal milestone with understated elegance.
The history of these brooches is rooted in a grand legacy of royal jewelry. They were originally part of the magnificent bequest left to Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother by Dame Margaret Greville in 1942, a collection renowned for its opulence and historical significance. The passing of these clips from the Queen Mother to her daughter as a 21st birthday gift further weaves them into the intricate tapestry of familial connections and inherited treasures.
Even today, the Queen continues to wear these charming clips on occasion, a testament to their timeless design and enduring sentimental value. Their versatility allows them to be worn together or separately, adapting to various ensembles and events. A formal portrait taken in 1951, featuring Princess Elizabeth with a young Princess Anne and Prince Charles, beautifully captures her wearing these exquisite brooches, showcasing their delicate sparkle within a cherished family moment.
9. **The Diamond Clematis Brooch**A vision of timeless beauty, the Diamond Clematis Brooch remains a perennial favorite within the Queen’s extensive collection. This exquisite piece, shaped like the charming clematis flower, features all six of its petals meticulously encrusted in sparkling diamonds. Its classic design has ensured its enduring appeal, making it a staple for numerous royal engagements over the decades.
This captivating jewel has been a cherished part of the Queen’s collection since the spring of 1947. It gained particular prominence when Princess Elizabeth memorably wore it for her official engagement photos that July, announcing her betrothal to Prince Philip. The brooch, with its radiant floral motif, perfectly complemented the joyful and hopeful spirit of the occasion, becoming an iconic symbol of her personal happiness and public commitment.
Remarkably, despite being acquired over seven decades ago, the Diamond Clematis Brooch appears just as current and fashionable today as it did when it first graced the young princess. Its classic diamond-set design transcends fleeting trends, embodying an elegance that is truly eternal. A photograph from May 1947 captures the brooch’s inherent charm, showcasing its delicate sparkle and the understated sophistication it brought to Princess Elizabeth’s attire even before her engagement was officially announced.
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10. **The City of London Lily Brooch**Our journey through Queen Elizabeth II’s early brooches culminates with the magnificent City of London Lily Brooch, a classic diamond piece with a profound civic connection. This elegant lily-shaped adornment was presented to the then-Princess Elizabeth in 1947, on the momentous occasion when she received the prestigious Freedom of the City of London. This gift beautifully intertwined her personal jewelry with a significant recognition of her public service.
Over the seven decades since its presentation, the Queen has worn this brooch with remarkable regularity, incorporating it into a wide array of her public appearances. It has become a particular favorite for spring occasions, gracing her ensembles at vibrant garden parties, the solemnity of Easter Sunday services, and the fashionable spectacle of Royal Ascot. Its bright, floral design perfectly suits the celebratory spirit of these events.
The City of London Lily Brooch also made a very prominent and symbolic appearance in 2002, when the Queen chose to wear it for the service of thanksgiving at St. Paul’s Cathedral, celebrating her Golden Jubilee. This choice underscored the brooch’s enduring significance as a symbol of her long reign and her deep connection to the nation’s capital. A photograph from Royal Ascot in June 2009 perfectly captures the brooch’s radiant presence, showcasing its continued elegance and the Queen’s affection for this historically significant piece.
These exquisite royal brooches, from their origins as thoughtful gifts to their roles in defining historic moments, collectively tell a story far richer than mere adornment. They are shimmering threads in the fabric of royal history, each reflecting a specific time, a personal sentiment, or a public duty. Through their enduring beauty and the narratives they carry, these jewels offer us a rare and intimate glimpse into the life and legacy of Queen Elizabeth II, reminding us that true elegance, like history itself, is truly timeless. Their curated details and historical significance ensure their place not just in a treasure trove, but in the hearts and minds of those who appreciate the profound connection between jewelry and heritage.
