Yosemite Valley, a monumental sculpture carved by the relentless hand of time and glaciers, stands as a testament to the Earth’s enduring power and breathtaking beauty. Every towering granite face, every cascading waterfall, whispers tales of geological forces constantly at play, shaping and reshaping this iconic landscape. It is a place where nature’s grandeur is not static but a vibrant, ever-unfolding drama, reminding us of the planet’s incredible, often unpredictable, vitality.
Recently, this grand geological theater unveiled a new and astonishing act, captivating the attention of park officials, climbers, and scientists alike. Near the celebrated Royal Arches cliff, a massive, unprecedented crack has emerged, literally overnight, etching itself into the ancient stone. This isn’t merely a superficial fissure; it’s a testament to the dynamic forces that tirelessly sculpt our world, revealing the living pulse of Yosemite itself.
This remarkable phenomenon, a 200-foot hand crack, burst into existence near the climbing route Super Slide. Its appearance was so sudden that it caught even seasoned climbers by surprise. In a truly astonishing turn of events, a guide from the Yosemite Mountain School, who had climbed the area on August 6th and saw no such crack, returned on August 20th to find it clearly defined and visible.
“We learned about this [new crack] from a Yosemite Mountain School guide who had climbed up there on August 6th and did not see the crack. And then he climbed it on August 20th and the crack was there,” shared Jesse McGahey, a Supervisory Park Ranger at Yosemite National Park. He described its initial dimensions as “a finger-tips to one-inch sized crack 200 feet long or so,” a testament to the sheer scale of its overnight genesis.
Initially, after the crack was swiftly climbed and even named Super Natural at a 5.10- grade, park officials posted a notice on Mountain Project. However, the true urgency of the situation became undeniably clear upon a closer inspection. A climbing ranger and a geologist ventured to the site for a firsthand observation, and what they encountered was truly extraordinary and profoundly unsettling.
McGahey recounted their experience, stating, “they could hear it cracking like a frozen lake that wasn’t consolidated.” Imagine the chilling sound, the deep groans of rock yielding under immense, unseen pressure. Even more astonishingly, they witnessed “pieces of rock rattling down the crack without touching it,” an observation that speaks volumes about the instability of the newly formed fissure.
This was not just another crack; it was an active, audible process of geological change. The park geologist, a veteran of 15 years in Yosemite, was unequivocal in his assessment. He had, according to McGahey, “never seen anything like this. He’s never been able to observe that in his 15 years in Yosemite.” This expert testimony underscores the truly unprecedented nature of this event, marking it as a significant moment in the park’s geological narrative.
Further investigations revealed that this new crack has actively begun to detach a large pillar of rock from the Royal Arches cliff face. The implications of such a development are profound, signaling a potential for a major rockfall event. This active splitting and separation of the rock mass demanded immediate and decisive action from park authorities to safeguard visitors.
Indeed, the crack’s expansion has been startlingly rapid. Previous reports indicated that since its first ascent, it had “expanded over an inch in the past week.” Then, even more dramatically, as of a recent morning, the crack had grown by an additional 12 feet. McGahey further noted its widening: “In a lot of places where you had a tip finger crack, it had widened into baggy ring locks.” This dynamic growth highlights the instability and ongoing transformation within the rock formation.
In response to this actively occurring geological event, the National Park Service promptly implemented a temporary area and trail closure. This precautionary measure aims to “reduce risk from rockfall” while thorough investigations continue. The safety of visitors is paramount, and the park’s swift action reflects their deep commitment to protecting those who venture into this magnificent landscape.
These closures are extensive and strategically placed to encompass the areas most at risk. They include the eastern part of the Ahwahnee Hotel Parking area, extending to the east side of the Royal Arches Creek. Furthermore, the Serenity Crack and Super Slide areas are entirely closed, encompassing all routes from Peruvian Flake to the Rhombus Wall, including the popular Serenity Crack/Sons of Yesterday, and Super Slide routes themselves.
The Ahwahnee Boulders east of and including the Ahwahnee Boulder are also part of this vital closure. Additionally, approximately a quarter-mile section of the Yosemite Valley Loop Trail is closed, with a marked detour routing hikers around the potential hazard area. These closures, which commenced on August 30th, will remain in effect indefinitely until a clearer picture of the potential threat emerges and appropriate long-term safety measures can be determined.
Understanding the context of rockfall in Yosemite is crucial to appreciating the significance of this new crack. Rockfall is, in fact, a relatively common phenomenon in Yosemite Valley, a natural and essential process in shaping its unique features. Park records reveal that over 1,000 significant rockfall incidents have occurred over the past 150 years, a testament to the valley’s dynamic geological evolution.
Various natural factors contribute to these impressive displays of Earth’s power. Changing temperatures, fluctuating moisture levels, and even shifts in vegetation can all play a role in triggering rockfall. The National Park Service explains that “triggering mechanisms like water, ice, earthquakes, and vegetation growth are among the final forces that cause unstable rocks to fall.
One fascinating process is “frost wedging,” or “freeze-thaw.” As the National Park Service elucidates, “If water enters fractures in the bedrock, it can build up pressure behind unstable rocks. Water also may seep into cracks in the rock and freeze, causing those cracks to grow.” This incremental leveraging of loose rocks away from cliff faces is responsible for some of the most peculiar and iconic landscapes, such as the hoodoos of Bryce Canyon National Park.
While rockfalls are a natural part of Yosemite’s geological story, associated injuries and fatalities are, thankfully, rare, though not impossible. However, this year has seen several rockfall-related incidents that serve as somber reminders of the potential risks. McGahey reported, “We’ve had a fatality, and at least three other accidents that required rescues involving rock failure –all human caused, induced either from people pulling a block off or someone leaning against a block.”
Looking back at 2022, the park experienced 52 documented rockfalls, a notable increase linked to strong fall storms. Two visitors were struck by rockfall debris below Union Point, and a massive 1,344 cubic meter slab of rock detached from Middle Brother, marking the largest incident of the year. Another significant event saw a roughly 4,000-ton slab from Middle Brother detach, dislodging over 440 tons more rock, with some boulders causing damage to Northside Drive.
Tragically, on December 27th, 2022, a rockfall east of the park’s Arch Rock Entrance fragmented into dozens of boulders, striking a vehicle on El Portal Road and claiming the lives of two people inside. These incidents underscore the inherent, though infrequent, dangers associated with such a geologically active environment and reinforce the park’s cautious approach to the new Royal Arches crack.
Monitoring this extraordinary new crack falls under the purview of Greg Stock, the park geologist. He is diligently working on a comprehensive monitoring plan to track any further shifting or movement. This involves meticulous observation, and as McGahey stated, “It’s an evolving and ongoing situation and we will continue to monitor it.” The goal is to gain a clearer understanding of the crack’s behavior and potential future trajectory.
However, predicting the future of such a dynamic geological feature is inherently challenging. As park officials acknowledge, “It’s hard to predict if this massive piece of stone will fall in the next week, this winter, or last many years.” The uncertainty necessitates continued vigilance and the maintenance of the current closures. The park will keep everyone updated through the climbing stewards Instagram account and other park media platforms, ensuring the most current information is available.
The setting for this unfolding geological drama is none other than Royal Arches, one of Yosemite’s most iconic climbing zones. This magnificent band of rock soars skyward at a relatively accessible grade, making it a beloved destination for climbers. Its history is as rich and intricate as the rock itself, with its first ascent dating back to 1936.
The route of Royal Arches is a captivating journey through the stone. It begins with a challenging chimney, leading climbers past a significant chockstone, then traverses over a long series of ledges before reaching a steeper, smoother face. Another traverse leads to a delicate finger crack, which then gives way to a sequence of cracks and ledges. At the summit of these pitches, climbers discover a bolted anchor with about 30 feet of rope, necessitating a pendulum or climb to the left onto another ledge system.
This system then guides them to a massive hollow flake, a distinct feature of the route. After one more pitch, which is known for its difficulty, the climb merges seamlessly into a trail through the woods, offering a unique descent. Beyond its inherent enjoyment, Royal Arches is also strategically important as the easiest approach to the famed North Dome, adding to its popularity and significance within the climbing community.
Yosemite’s scientists are continuously at the forefront of understanding these natural processes, employing sophisticated tools like high-resolution photography and laser mapping to assess rockfall risks throughout the park. This dedication to scientific study allows them to manage the inherent dangers of such a wild and beautiful place, balancing visitor access with necessary precautions.
As visitors, we are reminded that “It’ll remain closed due to the fact that it’s an active crack, and we are observing further propagation or growth of the crack. And also keep in mind that climbers can encounter rockfall on any route in any area of Yosemite.” This enduring reality serves as a powerful reminder of nature’s untamed spirit, a force that continually shapes the very ground beneath our feet.
The emergence of this new crack at Royal Arches is more than just a geological curiosity; it is a profound testament to the dynamic, living nature of our planet. It invites us to observe, to learn, and to appreciate the colossal forces that ceaselessly sculpt the landscapes we cherish. Yosemite, with its timeless granite and its ever-evolving features, remains a place of unparalleled wonder, beckoning us to witness Earth’s grand, unfolding story and inspiring a deep respect for its formidable power.
In this magnificent valley, where ancient rock meets the breath of change, every creak and shift tells a story of creation and transformation. The Royal Arches crack serves as a compelling, living lesson in geology, a stark and beautiful reminder that the natural world is a masterpiece in continuous revision, perpetually surprising us with its boundless energy and profound mysteries.
